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Registered: 02-2009
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Weapon Color and Damage


All (and Deak/Sidia in particular), please take a look at this info and make certain that it's accurate. New folks might find this easier to read than the official numerated rulebook.

The following information has been taken directly from the Dagorhir.org. You've probably been on the battlefield with us and heard these about all of these colors. It can be a little confusing sometimes to know just what color does what and how it affects you. Take a quick look at this chart to hopefully clarify that.

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Also, the following is the section from the same website regarding the usual types of weapons allowed (complete with pictures!!).

Weapon construction

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A safe weapon is one that will not leave bruises, break bones or noses, or knock out teeth when an unarmored person is struck with a full-strength baseball bat style swing. If a weapon hurts at all when someone is struck with it, it is not safe.

All weapons are subject to rejection for ANY safety or construction discrepancies at the discretion of the weapons check committee at check-in. Further, all weapons are subject to removal from the field of battle if they should prove unsafe for any reason during the battle. NO EXCEPTIONS WILL BE MADE FOR WEAPONS WHICH ARE NOT FULLY SAFE AT ALL TIMES. Bear this in mind and bring spare weapons or weapon construction materials with you to check-in in case your weapon does not pass. All weapons and shields will be checked every battle.

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The entire surface of the weapon must be padded with foam rubber (except where it is held) including the butt end of the weapon, or pommel. If a cross guard or quillions are added, they must also be padded to meet Dagorhir safety requirements.

Only duct tape, electricians tape, strapping tape or glue (i.e. rubber or contact cement) may be used in weapon construction. No masking or cellophane tape.

All hacking and smashing weapons must have cloth coverings on all striking surfaces.

Hafts on axes, morning stars, maces and the like must be padded as safely as a swordblade except for a reasonable area for a handhold. This is to prevent injury if someone is struck with the haft, rather than the head of the weapon.

Weapons made with a 'blade' shape (i.e. swords or axes made to resemble actual weapons more closely) must have the 'flat' of the blade padded safely as well as the edges. This includes 'single-edged' weapons such as sabers and cutlasses. NOTE: It takes a good deal of practice to make a safe insulite sword, and the people who make them have generally been at it a long time.

All red or blue weapons, with the exception of pole arms, must weigh a minimum of 1/2 oz. per inch of overall length, from the tip to the pommel. A weapon which is made too light is often not felt in combat, and therefore causes problems. Javelins may weigh no more than one and one half pounds (24 oz.). If a sword is pommel-weighted, the balance point must be at least two inches above the hilt.

If you wish to use a weapon type which is not covered in this handbook, you must present written documentation of the weapon's existence, how it was used, and what time period it came from to the weapons check committee at check-in. All new weapons must still pass weapons inspection every battle.


Construction

The best way to make safe weapons for Dagorhir is through 'progressive resistance'. This means making the weapons in layers, each one more resistant than the one outside it. In some cases, only two layers are needed, in others, more. Some successful weapon designs use the reverse of this technique, using a very firm foam for the outermost layer, with softer foam underneath.

Use a good firm foam rubber to pad the weapons with. Don't use the soft squishy kind. Look in the Yellow Pages under the Rubber 'Foam and Sponge' heading, and buy it from a wholesaler; they are cheaper than retailers. Foam is best cut with a new single-edge razor blade, or small-toothed hack-saw. Another remarkably efficient tool is an electric kitchen knife.

Weapon cores may be made out of a variety of materials; fiberglass rods, PVC tubing, bamboo and rattan are all good core materials. Metal rods or tubing of any sort, baseball bats, and axe handles are all strictly unsafe and weapons made with these materials will not be allowed. Thinner and lighter cores are easier to pad safely, but will also be more likely to break. Also, weapons with small, flexible cores have a tendency to wrap around and "snap" at the tip, making them unsafe.

If you are using a PVC core and wish to mount quillions, weights, or other fixtures, avoid drilling any holes in the PVC. The holes will weaken the pipe, and it will eventually break.

Once you have selected a core, it is best to pad the tip and quillions (if any) first. Even if the weapon is not intended to be used for thrusting, it is easier to pad the tip first, rather than after the blade is finished. This will also protect the outer layers of foam from the core.

In order to make a safe thrusting tip, see the section on arrow construction. This is the easiest, safest way to make a thrusting tip. Tips will have to be made larger for spears, swords, etc., but the principle is exactly the same.

It is best to make the innermost layer of any blade out of either closed-cell foam (such as insulite or pipe insulation) or a very dense open-cell foam, preferably the 4 lb. type. Do not use the type of pipe insulation which looks like styrofoam; it does not provide enough padding to be safe. Secure this layer to the core all the way from the tip to the handle in such a way so that it will not twist, using either tape or glue. If you are using tube-shaped pieces, it is a good idea to split the piece lengthwise.

If you are making a large weapon, it is a good idea to add another layer of this very dense foam before going to the softer kind.

Once the inner layers and the tip are finished, use layers of firm foam, compacted as little as possible, until the weapon is fully safe all the way around, without any dangerous areas. It is a good idea to make these layers out of thick foam (at least two inches) so that less glue or tape is needed to secure them.

Remember that duct tape, even when cloth covered, tends to slap, and weapons with too much tape on them may not be safe.

Nerf soccer or basketballs are the best things for the heads on morning stars. Morning star handles must be well padded at the top (where the "chain", joins the handle) as well as at the bottom. The handle of a morning star must be at least half of the total length. The "chain", regardless of whether it is made of rope or cloth, must have foam wrapped around it in sections and taped. No part of the "chain" may be exposed at any time. To make a morning star, first secure the chain to the handle by drilling a hole in the handle, passing the chain through, and tying it securely. Fasten the chain to the ball by making a bag of cloth or net, placing the ball in the bag, and tying the chain securely to the bottom of the bag. Pad the pommel and handle the way you would pad those on an axe.

Using these guidelines (with some variations) you should be able to produce safe, usable and good-looking weapons. It is still a good idea to look at the way other people make their weapons before making your own.


Archery

Archery is probably the most hazardous area of Dagorhir combat. In order to keep the game as safe as possible, the rules on archery combat and arrow construction must be followed carefully.
Arrow construction

The construction of arrows must follow precisely the steps listed below. Arrows which do not precisely follow these steps will not be allowed to be used at any Dagorhir battles.
General guidelines

    * Mended arrows may not be used.
    * All arrows must have at least two full fletchings (feathers).
    * Only duct or strapping tape may be used in arrow construction.
    * All non-aluminum arrows must have their shafts wrapped in tape.
    * All arrows must be marked on the tip with an insignia that is registered at check-in.
    * No closed-cell foam may be used in arrow construction.
    * There must be no tape covering the outer layer of foam at the tip of the arrow.
    * The head of the arrow must not be able to be moved from side to side.
    * The "head" of each arrow must be large (bigger than most doorknobs) to be safe. The size of the head will be tested with a gauge: If the arrow can pass through a 2.5" diameter hole without excessive force, it will judged unsafe.
    * The quality of the arrows you buy is up to you. The cheap wooden kind do not fly as well and tend to break more easily, but are less expensive than aluminum or fiberglass arrows.

Last edited by Cordane, 2/20/2009, 9:53 am
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Cordane Profile
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Re: Weapon Color and Damage


Making the arrows:

   1. . Remove the metal tip.
   2. . Roll duct tape around the end of the shaft until the shaft is at least the diameter of a penny.
   3. . Place a penny on top and secure it well with duct tape. Use several layers.
   4. . Place a block of foam 3 inches square on top and compact it firmly. Make sure that this foam is not compacted so tightly that it looses all of its cushioning effect.
   5. . Lastly, fold a 2.5x2.5x8 inch piece of foam loosely over the top, taping the sides tightly, but not the top. Make certain that the head cannot be moved from side to side.

These construction rules are final. No deviations will be tolerated. Anyone who is constructing arrows for Dagorhir for the first time is advised to speak to veterans who have made arrows before in order to make construction safer and easier.


Shield construction

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All shields must be padded as safely as any other Dagorhir weapon; be certain that your shield cannot injure yourself or other players.

All shields must be covered with a layer of foam that is at least 2" thick (the heavier the shield is, the thicker the foam should be). Cover the foam with canvas. The height of your shield should not exceed the distance from your ankles to your shoulders.

No circular shield can have a diameter exceeding 3 feet.

All shields must have a minimum of an 18" height and width.

All shields must have closed cell foam folded over the edges. We suggest insulite or pipe insulation, attached directly to the core of the shield.

Spikes must extend at least 4" above the face of the shield and should be made of dense or compacted foam. Nerf footballs work well.

Any shield with a surface area bigger than a saucer sled must be made of 3/8" plywood at the minimum.

A light, durable shield can be made from an aluminum saucer sled. Punch holes in it and string some rope through to form an arm strap and hand grip. Put some foam on to pad your arm. Tape or glue closed cell foam around the rim of the sled. From a large sheet on foam, cut out a piece of foam which has a diameter ten inches larger than the sled so you can fold the foam over the edge of the sled.

Cut out a piece of canvas at least one foot larger than the sled. Fold the edges and sew it, and work some rope through the newly formed hem. Put the sled, foam, and cover together and pull the rope tight, drawing the foam over the sled's edges. If you have extra rope, make a strap so you can wear the shield on your back. Paint a design on it (maybe your character's symbol).

Last edited by Cordane, 2/20/2009, 9:54 am
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Deakon Avory Profile
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Re: Weapon Color and Damage


GREAT information Cordane!

Nice research! I love the chart and the comparing of the real to Dag weapons! Very nice!

~Deakon~

---
Born and raised Eryndor,
Every thing else is just a foam stick...

http://www.dagorhiroftallahassee.webs.com
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